What Iceland Can Teach Us About Ethical Clothing

What Iceland Can Teach Us About Ethical Clothing

cait bagby wearing a traditional white icelandic sweater with a brown patterned yolk. She is helping to short sheep at the annual rettir.

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Founded in 1977 by a small group of women, the Handknitting Association of Iceland recently won a major battle in the fight for ethical clothing. You’d be forgiven for not thinking about ethical clothing in the land of ice and fire and yet it pervades throughout every aspect of the Icelandic way of life. 

The 2008 financial collapse presented a unique opportunity to a country that was often little more than a stop over from mainland Europe and North America. Deflation of the Icelandic króna led to a sharp increase in the rise of tourism which in turn helped the economy to rebound. An estimated 40% of the country’s export revenues and 10% of it’s GDP are linked to tourism. In 2019 around 2 million tourists visited the country and while that number has been declining the decade long boom left an enormous impact.

Whether it was the volcanic eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010, the rise of instagram influencers flocking to the vast expanses to snap an envious picture, the airline stopover promotions, or the popularity of Game of Thrones; Iceland was on a whole not prepared for what the influx of tourism would mean. Infrastructure was quickly built, tourism companies boomed, Airbnb sprang up in just about every apartment building in Reykjavik and farmhouse through the countryside, restaurants diversified, souvenir shops popped up throughout, and the endless wave led to a creative expansion across the country. But, not everyone embraced the transformation. 

The lopapeysa sweater has long been the iconic garment of the Icelandic peoples. You won’t find a closet without one. And while there is a long history of knitting for both young and old, men and women, this particular sweater didn’t enter the vernacular until sometime between the 1920’s and 1950’s. It coincided with the more efficient mechanizations of processing wool. The sweaters are made from lopi a unique fiber to the sheep of Iceland and is heralded for both its lightness and strength while remaining waterproof. A must in the oftentimes harsh climate. Historically to be classified as a Lopapeysa the sweater must be knit from lopi in a continuous loop without seams. Additionally, it must include a circular pattern around the shoulders. It wasn’t until Iceland’s independence from Denmark in 1944 that the lopapeysa became a national symbol.

Cait Bagby wearing a traditional lopapeysa Icelandic sweater looking at a sheep at the annual rettir. Discussing ethical clothing with local farmers

Up until the tourism boom the lopapeysa could have been used as an ethical clothing measuring stick. It was made from local wool from sheep that were treated humanely, mainly coming from small family farms. They were made from natural fibers and knitted in the country where living wages were paid. The surge in tourism drastically shifted the demand and by virtue of that the means of production.

The modern economy for all of its positives also brings with it plenty of opportunity to increase profit margins at the expense of quality, safety, environmental and worker well being. In the case of the lopapeysa sweater, chasing the often elusive profit margin led many businesses to start outsourcing their manufacturing where wages remain depressed compared to that of Iceland’s. In short, to meet the demand while continuing to increase profits some high street Icelandic brands began contracting Chinese firms to either knit the sweaters from lopi at reduced wages or began making them from blended materials, sometimes both. A debate emerged as to whether or not they could truly be called Icelandic.

Clever marketing tags started popping up that without thorough research were difficult to differentiate. “Made in Iceland” or “Made from Icelandic Wool” became the greenwashing go-to for these companies. Made in Iceland may or may not mean that the sweater is made from a hundred percent lopi while made from Icelandic wool may or may not mean it was made in the country or contains a hundred percent lopi. Tourists were left to their own devices trying to figure out the authenticity but often became seduced by high street convenience and price differentiation while remaining none the wiser.

The Handknitting Association rallied against what they saw as a theft of local heritage and launched a campaign for clear and transparent labeling and protection. Members not only wanted to preserve the local craft but also ensure tourists and locals alike were buying the real deal: made in Iceland and from only Icelandic lopi. In March 2020 after years of lobbying they won. 

Cait Bagby with the handknitters association in Reykjavik Iceland after finishing up and interview with them on the importance of labels

The sweaters received the second only Designation of Origin Label granting it legal protection under The Icelandic Food and Veterinary Authority. The ruling in short protects the pattern, craftsmanship, means of production, materials used, and ultimately enshrines the cultural values associated with each one. 

There has been no mention as to whether or not the labels “Made in Iceland” or “Made from Icelandic Wool” will disappear or continue to adorn knockoff products but they can no longer be called Lopapeysa sweaters without adhering to the seven conditions laid out by the Designation of Origin Label.  What the Handknitting Association has accomplished is nothing short of a David versus Goliath narrative. They were able to preserve a traditional craft while at the same time laying a framework for companies, organizations, and governments around the world when it comes to the production of ethical clothing. Simultaneously they demonstrated that profit margins are not the be all and end all of today’s modern economy bringing hope to those who continue to fight for the widespread normalization of ethical clothing.

This interview was originally published on CaitBagby.com (now merged with this site) on 13 July 2020

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15 thoughts on “What Iceland Can Teach Us About Ethical Clothing”

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    It has 3g of creatine monohydrate per serving and 30g of protein, delivering 75% protein per scoop.
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    In terms of creatine, this product has 3g of creatine monohydrate, which is identical dose because the Muscletech Nitrotech that I element below.
    Leoni Jesner is a fitness and well being writer contributing
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    In the body, this amino acid and histidine mix to form the dipeptide (two aminos certain together) often known as carnosine; it’s also a part of vitamin B3 (pantothenic
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    There is no scientific evidence suggesting the need to cycle creatine.

    Constant daily use is extra beneficial for maintaining muscle
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    Pre-workout powders dump lots of caffeine into your physique and typically embody
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    They say it offers a lift with out the jitters and has ingredients like green tea and L-theanine that hold them energized with no crash.
    The flavor is easy and enjoyable, and customers recognize the lack of
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  3. Stronger forearms can help you to generate extra energy through the deadlift.
    There isn’t any level moving to the deficit variation till you feel
    confident and solid with the mechanics and motion of the Deadlift.

    Use the quads to generate power and aim to
    push the bottom away from you during the pull.

    As Eddie Corridor says, consider the Deadlift as a Leg Press exercise.
    Most folks use both a bumper plate or a plyo field to face on and
    set up the raised place after they perform the train.
    To enhance your energy in the deadlift, you need to tackle weak points throughout the range of movement.
    A weak point is a spot inside the deadlift where you feel
    the barbell slowing down or a point during which
    you always fail beneath heavier masses. The deficit lifting is a troublesome train that needs cautious doing to get essentially the most out of it and
    keep injury-free. Rounding the back, letting the barbell draw back, and knees going too far ahead are huge
    no-nos. Do three to five units of three to six reps for strength,
    or three units of 8-10 reps for dimension.
    It’s value mentioning that the diameter of a weight plate is standardized, however
    completely arbitrary. Taking under consideration that the height of the bar off
    the ground is all the time the identical and everyone’s morphology is completely different, it
    doesn’t really matter where you pull from. They aren’t an easy train to master, and you have to pay further consideration to utilizing correct kind and method if you want to avoid harm.
    In other words, keep nicely within your limits – at least for the first few deficit deadlift exercises.

    If you begin off too high off the get-go you’re prone to lose the specificity
    of it and too much strain on your again. First, you want something to face on to realize the specified deficit height.
    This is usually a 45lb weight plate, a thicker hard mat, a gradual block, or a chunk of wooden.
    To initiate the lockout, purpose to lock the hips and knees simultaneously.

    The content material on our website is for informational and educational functions
    solely and isn’t meant as medical advice or to exchange a relationship with a qualified healthcare skilled.
    The content on TheExerciseBlueprint is meant to
    be informative in nature, and should not be taken as medical advice.

    When starting a new coaching regimen and/or diet, it is all the time a good idea to seek the assistance of with a trusted medical
    skilled. The opinions and articles on this web site are not meant for use as
    prognosis, prevention, and/or treatment of health issues.

    They usually are not substitutes for consulting a qualified medical skilled.

    The snatch deadlift makes use of a snatch-width grip, additionally double overhand.

    Mobility varies throughout different deadlift types
    and those with extra mobility restrictions will really feel
    like sure deadlifts are tougher than others. Hamstring and hip mobility
    are two frequent limitations and which one you wrestle with will determine which deadlifts you like.
    Whereas the deadlift is always some version of a hip hinge, not all deadlifts
    have the very same vary of movement. A managed descent (1-2 second decreasing phase) ought to work properly for nearly all lifters.

    Suppose about what yourshin angle must be if the deficit put the bar just on prime ofyour foot—
    the shin angle would be fairly horizontal, comparativelyspeaking.
    It modifications the ratio ofthe respective ranges of motion of the segment lengths shifting throughspace above versus beneath the hip.
    The deficit deadlift essentiallyputs platforms on the toes, elevating the ankle joint off the ground andallowing for extra dorsiflexion.
    When finding an elevated floor to deadlift from, more just isn’t better.
    The best surface to deadlift from must be 2-4 inches from the
    bottom. This consists of 45-pound plates both metallic or bumper or
    low wooden boxes. Make positive you screw your ft into the surface to create tension and stability.

    Use a double overhand or hook grip; an alternating grip is not going to
    work.

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